Hardware and Home Repair Frequently Asked Questions
| Can I paint over my oil base kitchen cabinets with a latex paint or do I need to prep them first? | TOP | |
| Remove the grease with a product that does not leave a film behind; NOT dishwashing detergent! Sand them to give the surface some "tooth" and paint with a latex paint. If everything is in good shape, there is no need to prime. |
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| How can I get latex paint off of my hardwood floor? | TOP | |
| If it is fresh, use water. If it has been on for awhile, use Goof-Off, available at your local True Value. |
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| How can I get rid of a hornets' nest? | TOP | |
| There are several things to consider about trying to remove a hornets' nest. First, what kind of hornet are they? Second, exactly where is the nest located? European hornets usually build their nests inside a hollow tree, or even inside an attic or wall void, or above the normal ceiling of a porch or awning (however, they will sometimes build a nest in a more open setting, such as in the branches of a bush or tree). European hornets are large, 3/4 - 1 1/4 inch long; generally brown colored with yellow markings on the top of almost every abdominal segment. Their nest is nearly always a light brownish-gray because they build it from rotting wood. These are active (fly readily) after dark Bald-faced hornets' nests usually hang free from a limb, or from the edge of a building [however, they will sometimes build a nest in a wall void or attic]. Bald-faced hornets are large, but only 5/8 - 3/4 inch long, with dark (black) body color, and have very light yellow (almost white) markings on the top of their abdomen but none of these on the first (basal) three abdominal segments. Bald-faced hornets' nests are light gray not brown. Bald-faced hornets tend to be not very active, and seldom fly after dark, unless greatly disturbed. I usually suggest that laymen NOT try to deal with large stinging insects, or their nests, but instead, contact a professional beekeeper or similarly trained expert. Anyone who tries to deal with such hornets' nests should wear the type of protective clothing that beekeepers wear. They should also try such control efforts at (or shortly after) dark, using only "back lighting" (as from a car's headlights some short distance away; perhaps 50 ft. or a bit farther away). They should also have some (several cans of) "quick knock-down" type aerosol chemicals ON HAND. They should have a large cloth or heavy plastic bag to immediately place the 'nest' into (and a way to QUICKLY seal such a bag shut). They should also have a clear, simple plan for how to effectively and fairly quickly immobilize (kill) the remainder of the insects which might still be alive within the nest (for example, some space set aside in a deep freezer they can put the bag into in less than 15 minutes after the nest has been taken down. AGAIN, this can be a very dangerous (and painful) experience, especially for the inadequately trained or poorly equipped person. In fact, it could even prove fatal if either any person is truly allergic to the stings of the hornets from that nest OR if any person were to get multiple (for example, 20 +) stings from such hornets. My advice is to leave such a control effort to Professional Beekeepers or to Professional Pest Managers who are properly trained and equipped for that exact function !!!! |
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| How can I repair a soft portion of a window frame or do I need to replace the board? | TOP | |
| If it is soft to the touch and compresses, replace it. If you know the manufacturer of the windows, you can go to where they are sold and get a replacement window sill. If not, you need to make up a piece of wood to match the profile and put in it. If it is not soft. you can use a wood caulk to fill the cracks and paint over it. | ||
| How do I change the washers in a leaky faucet? | TOP | |
| This question is a little vague since it may be leaking out the spout, by the handle, underneath, or around the neck. Other variables may include whether it is single handle, double handle, a cartridge design or a compression valve style. If it is dripping out the spout, it is most likely the valve mechanism (cartridge or compression). To remedy that, the homeowner would have to remove the handle & possibly a retaining nut then pull or unscrew the valve mechanism. Some older faucets, where the valve has not been replaced or serviced in some time, may require a tool for removal. If it's a Moen or Delta faucet you can contact them directly for more information through their Web sites. | ||
| How do I know when a circular saw blade is too dull to use? | TOP | |
| It's not so much the cleanliness of the cut but the time and force it takes you to get through the cut. A good sharp blade should offer no resistance when you cut through your material, where a dull blade will make the cutting go slower and cause the motor to work harder. This is the first clue your blade is dull OR you're over feeding the saw. If you can hear the saw change pitch, then it's a good sign something is not quite right such as the speed of the feed, sharpness of the blade, kerfing or too deep of a cut into thinner materials. | ||
| How do I properly prepare an interior wall that has cigarette smoke stains on it for paint? | TOP | |
| Apply a stain blocking primer to the affected area. Either SBW1 (water based) or XOS (oil based) should work well. Depending on the severity of the stains, two coats may be required before painting. | ||
| How do you earn your rewards and how do you get them? | TOP | |
| You'll receive your $10 Reward Certificate after earning 250 points on the card. The certificate will automatically be mailed to you once you earn 250 points. Tracking your points is easy: Go to www.truevalue.com , then click True Value Rewards on the left side of the screen towards the bottom. Enter your True Value Rewards ID and last name, and view your points.
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| How do you keep masonry bits sharp? | TOP | |
| Masonry bits are sharpened just like standard high speed steel drill bits on a grinding wheel. Drill bit sharpeners are available which sharpen certain ranges of drill sizes. In this sharpener, the drill bits are inserted at the correct grinding angle for each bit. | ||
| How much insulation is recommended for an unfinished attic? | TOP | |
| The efficiency of insulation is expressed as an R-value. R stands for resistance to heat loss and heat gain. A higher R-value means more resistance to heat loss and, again, that is more insulation. Keep in mind that with insulation, more is better. You can't use too much. However, there is a point of dimishings return: insulation loses its effectiveness when compacted. Although this may be a stretch in your attic, it can easily be compacted in the rafter bays of your vaulted ceiling. Thus, if you believe that you are improving energy efficiency by cramming R-38 into a space designed for R-19, you could actually end up with about R-10. In moderate climates R-38 is more than enough in the attic. However, in extreme climates R-60 makes more sense. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) recommends ranges or R-values based on local heating and cooling costs and climate conditions in different areas of the nation. We suggest that you visit the DOE website at www.energy.gov. In addition to getting the recommended R-value for the insulation for your home, the website contains a host of other valuable information from the types to insulation available to installation techniques. |
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| I am replacing water pipes in a shower that is 25 yrs. old and can't get them to stop leaking. | TOP | |
| I guess have several questions on this one. Where is the leak coming from? The question involves glue and possibly threaded connections on the shower valve body. Glue is used on PVC and CPVC piping. Only CPVC should be used for distribution as PVC is not hot water rated and should only be used for the main supply coming to the house. If Flow Guard Gold CPVC is being installed, the proper one part glue should be used. If this is just CPVC, then a cleaner/primer should be used on the pipe and fitting before the glue is installed. The pipe and fittings should not be wet for the glue to adhere properly and the glue must cure before the water is turned by on. If the leak is at the threaded connections on the valve, get male brass by CPVC fittings. Install Teflon tape on the male fittings before installation. At times I have also put a thin coating of pipe dope on top of the Teflon tape on difficult to seal connections. Then carefully tighten the fittings into the valve body. And I do mean tighten them. There should only be about two threads showing on the fitting if install properly. Connect the piping to the fittings and wait for glue to cure. Turn the water back on slowly until full pressure is attained and check for leaks.
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| I am rewiring for a dryer plug from the circuit box. My old dryer wire had only three wires, a red, black and white. My new wire also has a ground. Is the ground needed or does the white wire act as the ground? | TOP | |
| The black and red leads each supply 120 volts of power and the white wire or "neutral" is simply there as a return feed for unused or "excess" power. The bare or green wire is the "ground" wire and is there to reduce the chance of an electric shock when a short circuit occurs. Electricity is attracted to substances that it can easily travel through (i.e. copper, aluminum, water, etc.). Since we are made mostly of water we tend to be excellent grounds. A ground in an electric circuit is there to collect the electricity and send it to a path other than us. Hopefully, the ground wire will discharge excess electricity rather than allow it to stop your heart of cook you like a turkey at Thanksgiving. In other words the ground is an extremely important part of an electrical circuit. Connect the ground in the electric panel to the "buss" connecting bar that contains the bare and green wires. At the other end connect the ground wire to the receptacle or the electric box -- depending on which type you have. This general rule of grounding applies to ALL electrical wiring. |
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| I am trying to prepare my kitchen walls for painting. The walls have grease splatters which are a few years old. What can I use to clean my walls? Also, what is TSP? | TOP | |
| You'll need to get something like Grease Relief or a similar product to cut the grease on the walls. Painting over the grease will cause the paint to peel prematurely or not stick to the surface at all. TSP is a type of cleaner that removes dirt & will also prepare a surface for painting by slightly etching it therefore promoting a good paint bond. It also does not leave a residue behind like dish soap will. |
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| I dripped paint onto my carpet. Do you have any suggestions for removing the paint? | TOP | |
| Steam cleaning will often remove dried paint from a carpet. The sooner you remove splatters, the easier they are to remove. If you hire a cleaner, he may have a chemical solution that will aid in removing the paint. |
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| I have a 3-way light switch that actually has 1 master and 3 slave switches. The 2 in the middle of the circuit appear to have a pass-thru of the red wire, thus have 4 wires connected. The X-10 slave switches I am trying to install as a replacement only have 3 wires, will this work? | TOP | |
| What you have there is a light fixture that is controlled from four locations. In order for this to happen electrically, two 3-way switches and two 4-way switches are wired in ahead of the fixture. The sequence is this, 1 thru 4: 3-way, 4-way, 4-way, and 3-way. It can't work otherwise. The black wire from the panel box feeds the first 3-way. Then two "traveler" wires feed the first 4-way passing through it to the second 4-way and ultimately to the last 3-way and down to the black wire to the light fixture. Best advice is to look at a wiring diagram on the package the 4-way is sold in. | ||
| I have a lot of little black and brown ants along the edge of our driveway and I found a big black ant in my house on the 2nd floor. Should I be concerned about it? What type of inspection prevention can I take? | TOP | |
| The little black and/or brown ants along your driveway MAY be species which invade houses, but UNLESS you actually see (and collect specimens IN your house), they are not necessarily of any concern at all !!! There are literally hundreds of species of ants "outside," which never (or only now and then, accidentally) come into houses or cause any pest problem for humans. And, if they are not causing a problem, pest or other, they DO NOT need to be controlled, nor even bothered at all. They (ants) are an important part of many ecosystems. Regarding the big black ant, it could have been a carpenter ant, but it might have also belonged to any of several other large dark species. Most probably (based on where you found it, your geographic region, and its size and color), it was a 'major' worker of the "Black (or Pennsylvania) Carpenter Ant." However, you should NOT panic. Carpenter Ants, and at least 25 other species of ants, are frequently pests in our houses in the eastern U.S., but since they may search for food (= forage) for very long distances (up to 100 m. radius) from their nests, you may have seen a single "foraging" worker ant. If you see similar (but winged) ants swarming inside your house, or if you see "lines" of foraging ants, then you may have an active infestation of those particular ants. You would need to collect a few, take them to a County Agent, Entomologist, or other Biologist and get them identified. You could simply follow those lines back to wherever they were coming in and going out of the building, then simply seal the opening(s) firmly and completely. No other control measure may be needed at all. If you continue to see ants, you could also try using self-help baits or (better still) consider getting a professional pest management firm involved. If you choose that, you should get at least 3 estimates, ask all the questions you want, and even check each firm with the local Better Business Bureau before you sign ANY contract or pay any money. If you can figure out exactly what the ant(s) are picking up and carrying around, you could clean all of it up (vacuum or mop) and close up all food items in plastic bags, or sealable plastic boxes, or inside a refrigerator, etc. |
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| I have a mildew problems on the ceiling above my shower. What would be the best thing for me to do? | TOP | |
| Mildew in your home is easy to remove. Just mix 1/3 cup of powdered laundry detergent (less if concentrated) and 1 quart of liquid bleach with 3 quarts of warm water. Add the bleach to the water first and then the detergent. Scrub with a bristle brush and in minutes the mildew disappears. Rinse the area thoroughly and towel dry. Although this reasonably mild solution can be used for most painted surfaces, rubber gloves, eye protection and plenty of ventilation are a must. But why spend time removing mildew when you can prevent it? Mildew can't grow without a food source, and the food source that mildew thrives on is moisture. Mildew spores are in the air everywhere. They look for moist places to settle, feed and grow. So how do you prevent mildew from growing in the first place? Reduce or eliminate the food source by cutting down on the amount of moisture, usually condensation, that settles on walls, floors and ceilings. This may not be as simple for someone who lives in Florida as for a family in West Texas, but, given varying degrees of attention, eradication is possible even in relatively humid climates. If you don't have a window in your bathroom means that ventilation may be poor. Moreover, the lack of natural light provides optimal conditions for mildew growth. According to Building Code, a bathroom without a window must have an exhaust fan to remove moisture and unpleasant odors. Unfortunately, bath fans are often undersized, broken or simply not used. If you have an exhaust fan, make sure that it is cleaned periodically, that the duct is properly connected and in good shape and that it is always used during showering and allowed to run for 10 to 15 minutes after the shower. Also, check the CFM rating on your fan housing (that's the amount of air that the fan moves expressed as cubic feet per minute) -- anything less than 80 cfms is usually too small for most American bathrooms. Consider upgrading to a larger model is such is the case.
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| I have a pest in the house that comes in from outside. I have consulted a pest control company but no results yet in getting rid of the pest. | TOP | |
| Yes, you may have a chipmunk which has found its way into (and may be repeatedly entering) your house. These are vegetarian rodents, mainly seed (and nut) feeders. They will eat other processed grain products as well (such as cereals, dog/pet foods, etc.). They MAY chew on cords, IF the cord or its outer coat has come odor or organic material in or on it (for example some plastic or maybe an inner wrapping may contain, or "taste like," a natural oil from some grain or nut goody, or maybe it contains some salt). Anything in or on the cord which would taste 'good' to the rodent could cause it to chew that particular item (e.g., a wire wrapping or fixture). If the cord had a fabric covering, oils, sweat, or anything else which might have rubbed off of a person's hand (onto the fabric cord sheath) could have 'tasted' good enough to have caused the rodent to chew the cord. Regarding how to get rid of the pest, the only long-term effective method is, first, to find exactly where the rodent is getting in (and maybe out as well). Next, you must either chase it out, or trap it out (preferably alive), and then close (solidly seal shut) every one of its entry points. You must use durable enough materials to ensure the rodent cannot get back in (at least not quickly or easily). You should also take the extra step of closing up (denying access to any such future 'visitor') whatever food, water source, or harborage which seems likely to have attracted the rodent into the house in the first place. Incidentally, no repellents, no electronic repeller devices, nor other control techniques or materials (and even very few properly-labeled toxicant materials, against "wild" rodent species), are known to be effective against the "domestic" rodents, nor most other rodents which might even occasionally come into a house.
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| I have a plumbing problem wherein the toilet appears to bubble up water and the bowl completely fills with water upon flushing. It requires about 30 minutes for the water to drain out. When it does, it almost completely drains out. I have tried using a plunger, but to no avail. What should I do? | TOP | |
| It sounds like you have a clog. To clear a clog you have to be smarter than the toilet. First, get a mirror and use it to looking deeper into your toilet's drain. If you see nothing the next step is to remove the toilet and see if anything is stuck in the lower portion of its drain. If the toilet is A-OK then the next step is to use a "closet auger" (a short flexible coil spring cable that is used to dislodge debris in a sewer line). The sales clerk can explain how to use it. Once you have attempted to clear the drain with the auger you can then replace the toilet. Don't forget to use a new wax ring. The old one will most certainly leak | ||
| I have an earwig pest problem. What is the best way to get rid of them? | TOP | |
| We stock two earwig bait/killers: True Value item number 540712 - 7oz size from Verdant & True Value item number 167913 - 1lb size from Bonide. The bait/killer works like mouse bait as it attracts the earwigs to the bait and the bait is poison. | ||
| I have cracks between our foundation and walk way. I would like to know the best and proper way to seal these cracks. | TOP | |
| In most cases, the walk way and the foundation are not structurally connected. You should clean the cracked area of all loose material and then wash the area with water to remove any dust or dirt. You will then need to purchase concrete repair material. The product is a quick dry, high strength material that comes in a plastic bucket that can be mixed with water. Read the directions and install as required. Note: The cracking is caused by the never ending settling of your foundation and walk way. In most cases, the crack will reappear in time. |
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| I want to remove the paint on my old deck and stain the deck a natural wood color. How do I go about this? | TOP | |
There are a couple of options. It seems like the paint is firmly attached to the substrate, which is a good thing, if you want to use the following option: Clean the deck very well with TSP, which will also slightly etch the surface. You may want to sand it just to give the surface more "tooth" or bite. Allow it to dry. Follow with a coat of solid deck stain (must say "deck" stain on the label) This is the easiest method.
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| I would like to use True Value Clear Silicone Caulk 10.1 oz. (TV Model# TV012A) in my aquarium. Your web site states the product is safe for aquarium use. Is this true? | TOP | |
| TS # 729160 is an 100% acetoxy silicone. This will work fine for aquariums. However, we do suggest letting the silicone cure for 24-48 hours before putting fish in the tank due to the acetic acide released when the caulk cures. |
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| I'm getting ready to repaint a bedroom and gray circles are visible where the studs are located. Would two coats of heavy duty primer cover this? | TOP | |
| A stain blocking primer should cover those gray circles and prevent the stain from bleeding through to the surface of your top coat. It's better to seal water soluble stains with an oil base primer and oil soluble stains with a water base primer. Unfortunately, the solubility of stains is not an easy thing to determine. Water stains often encountered on ceilings and walls are water soluble stains and should be sealed with an oil base primer. Ink and marker can be either water soluble or oil soluble. A stain can be visible on the surface of a primer and still be sealed, but it may be a good idea to apply a second coat of primer before applying a top coat. SBW-1 Stain Blocker Primer is our water base stain blocking primer. XOS Stain Blocker Interior Oil-Base Primer/Sealer is our oil base stain blocking primer. Either will work well over most interior stains. |
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| In my kitchen, the caulk is cracking where the Corian splash meets the wall. What is the best product to use to replace? Do I have to remove the old caulk? | TOP | |
| You should remove the old caulk using a screwdriver to pull it out. Then use a clear caulk that is waterproof. | ||
| Is there a good method for not getting paint on the carpeting when you have to paint right down to it as in a doorway? | TOP | |
| Use painters tape with craft (brown) paper attached to it. It is available by the roll in different widths and is available at your local True Value. Put the sticky edge as close to the wall on the carpet as you can, even going under the trim boards if possible. The brown paper side gives a wider area of protection and works very well! Another thing you can do is lay newspaper along the edge of the wall on the carpet and with wide masking tape, tape the newspaper to the carpet. Same principle as the craft paper, but not as expensive! |
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| Is there something I can apply to the oil on the driveway that has leaked from an old car before I seal it? | TOP | |
| Use our Garage Floor & Driveway Cleaner available at your local True Value. Follow the label directions for best results. |
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| I've got an ice dam ... and it's causing a leak into a bathroom. How do I safely remove it without further damaging the roof? How then do I patch the roof and eliminate the cause of this? | TOP | |
Ice dams form when snow melts higher up on your roof and then runs down to form ice at the over hang or soffit area. Water from the melted snow then backs-up under the shingles and leaks into your house causing damage.
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| My bathroom drain is slow but I cannot get the stopper up to see if hair is wrapped up somehow. What do I do? | TOP | |
| The pop up plug in the sink can be removed. Under the sink there is a rod attached to the pull up rod on the faucet. Where the rod enters the drain to actuate the pop up, remove the connecting nut with a pair of pliers and slide it our. The pop up plug can now removed and cleaned. With lavatory sinks the most common area of stoppage is hair collecting around this plug. |
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| My garbage disposal suddenly stopped working last night. Is this something that I could repair? | TOP | |
| I have two suggestions for you. The first would be to look at the disposal itself and on the bottom there may be an overload "reset" button that needs to be pushed in. Do this with the power switch off. The second suggestion is to go back to the power panel and determine the breaker supplying the disposal and cycle it (turn it off, then back on). |
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| My toilet is constantly running. This problem started right after the replacement of the flapper. | TOP | |
| I am assuming there was a reason for replacing the flapper. I am also assuming that your toilet was running much less before the replacement of the flapper. I am assuming that the water level is below the overflow. I am assuming it is constantly running.
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| The drains in my bathroom run poorly. When you use the shower the sink gets backed up. Can you tell me how to make it flow regular again? | TOP | |
| When the drains reach this level of blockage, cabling the lines with a drain cleaning machine is probably the only answer at this point. After someone like Mr. Rooter cleans the drains, a drain maintenance product will help keep them open so this might not happen again. | ||
| What are five penny nails? What type hammer do I need to use them? | TOP | |
| The Penny Weight system is an outdated way of counting nails but is still used sometimes to describe nail sizes. You see, they used to be weighed out per penny so, in this case, the 5 penny nail is now a 5d nail that is 1-3/4" in length. The Penny Weight distinction has been pretty well given up since nails are generally sold in boxes, but bulk sellers in "old-fashioned hardware stores" might still use that term. When you would use this nail depends on the project you're doing. Thickness of the materials to be nailed determines the length of the nail required. Since this is a short nail, the type of hammer to use depends on 1) does the nail have a finish and 2) what the type of head is on the nail. Also, the weight of the hammer you use actually depends on the user's preference. |
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| What do I use to cut acrylic Plexiglas? | TOP | |
| You will need to use a Scoring Knife. The easiest way to do this is clamp a straightedge to the piece of Plexiglas. Score the Plexiglas 2 or 3 times to ensure a clean break. Place the Plexiglas on the edge of a table with the scored line right on the edge. Use a rubber mallet to break off the un-needed piece. Use safety glasses or goggles when doing this to prevent injury. Also be careful, the cut edge will be sharp. | ||
| what is the best way to solder copper pipes together and what supplies do I need to the job for a kitchen taps? | TOP | |
| Soldering fittings/pipe together is accomplished by fitting the fitting...where you wish the solder to flow TO. The solder flow is called "capillary action." Heat it with a torch designed for soldering (use a wide flame). DON'T OVERheat.....you heat until solder JUST melts. Then stop heating and apply the solder. First clean both the fittings and the pipe. This is critical. Do so with sand cloth designed for this (available at True Value stores). Then apply a quality flux designed for potable (drinkable) water (such as Nokorode brand). Use only non-lead solder designed for plumbing pipes (not for electrical). Then heat. The heat will draw the solder into the gap. It does require some skill and attention to safety. Things to look for: |
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| What is the difference between a Watt, Volt and an Amp? | TOP | |
| Here's a basic lesson in electricity. Amps (short for amperage) measures the strength of an electric circuit (e.g. ordinary lights are rated at 15 amps so the circuit in the circuit box requires a 15 amp circuit; thicker 20 amp wires deliver power for small appliances; clothes dryers and electric ranges require 30-50 amps so 2 circuits are are fused together to provide it. Volt measures electromotive force and watts equals volts times amps.
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| What's the best way to make sure a wall is ready for a new coat of paint so that it won't peel in the future? | TOP | |
| The glue from old wallpaper should be totally removed to promote a good paint bond. You have a lot sanding to look forward to!! After that, prime & paint the walls. | ||
| Will Weed and Feed harm the plants in my flowerbeds if it gets into them | TOP | |
| You should keep all lawn Weed and Feeds out of your flower beds and landscaping. If you have a small lawn, a Scotts AccuGreen Drop Spreader will allow you to safely apply lawn products to your grass next to your beds. If you have a larger lawn, a Scotts Deluxe EdgeGuard spreader would be a good choice. This is a broadcast spreader that features a shield that can be engaged to apply a straight line next to your flower beds, driveway or sidewalk. You can then disengage the shield allowing you to apply a 5 ft wide application of product. |
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